Day 9 - Hiking Havana

We woke up to a lovely sound, similar to that of a jack hammer.  The noise was coming from the water heater, as we found out when we gracefully waltzed out dreary-eyed and hungry.  Our host, well one of many, served us each a bowl of papaya and banana.  While we scarfed the fruit down she prepared us each an egg, a pancake, and I assume what was supposed to be sausage.

At breakfast we met two Israeli friends, Amir and Meir, as well as a German couple, Tina and Mike.  We went to exchange our money at the bank with Tina and Mike, then we began our sight-seeing.  We toured up and down the streets of Havana.  The quarter we stayed in, Capitolio, is fairly run down.  It looks like San Francisco just after the 1908 earthquake.

Most buildings wouldn't pass inspection in the first world.  

As we walked through the city we went through the Vieja district.  This district was much cleaner and well kept.  The buildings were in good shape, the road was nicely kept cobblestone, and lots of stores and little history museums could be found on every corner.

Cuba really does have vibrant colors, even in the cities.

One of the many plazas scattered around Havana.

This spooky house is right across the plaza from the castillo.

Havana has hundreds of "museums" most just one room with a few things on display such as the Museo de Cerámica or the Museo de Chocolate, which is really just a chocolate shop, but a damn good one.

Some museum we walked by.  I didn't know Spanish well enough to warrant entry.

We eventually happened upon Castillo de la Real Fuerza.  Built like a fortress protecting the entrance to the harbor, the castillo looks incredibly regal from the coastline.

Layout of the castillo.

A bunch of cannons guarded the entrance.   

There's a moat and drawbridge!  How cool is that?!

 I can't even begin to imagine how uncomfortable that helmet must have been.  

 A giant model ship in the castillo.  Remember that the Spanish were really interested with ships back then.  

 Every good traveller needs a sextant.

While called a castle it really was more of a fortress.

 View of Havana Harbor from the castillo.  

After the castillo we wandered back down to Vieja, where we stopped by a café for lunch.  Anissa and I split a dish of fish, rice, and a pathetic excuse for vegetables.  The rice was undercooked and I wasn't much a fan of the fish.  The lemonade, however, was extremely refreshing on the hot day.  \

After lunch we found the Museo de Chocolate.  Walking in the door we were hit with an aroma of pure cocoa.  Mmmmm.  Mike and I both had the hot chocolate and when I say chocolate I mean it was basically melted chocolate in a cup.  I loved it.  We also had a bar of milk chocolate.  Total sum: $2.50 CUC.  So cheap!

Everything is a museum here. 

 Melted pure heaven in a cup. 

Damn that was good hot chocolate.

We sauntered our way to the beach.  It was warm and very humid, so we weren't walking fast.  Well, it turns out, there wasn't a beach where we went, just a cement wall that buts up against the water, supposedly to keep the crazy Floridians out.  We had a nice long walk along the Av. de Maceo before cutting in to see the Plaza de la Revolucion.

 Lots of fishermen catching nothing bigger than 6 inches.  

 Tina and Anissa have girl-time while use guys try and document the trip.  

Along the way we spotted a "taco" shop.  I put "taco" in quotes because it would hardly be recognizable if I hadn't.  Thus far on my journey, the best tacos I have had have been back in California.  You're letting me down Latin America!

Beans, pork, pineapple, and sauerkraut?  Those aren't even corn tortillas, I have no clue what they were made of.  

After the "tacos" we headed back to the hostel where I peeled off my clothes and showered all the stickiness away.  From then on out I decided to go commando.  There just really is no other way in such humidity.

  The Plaza de la Revolucion.  That statue is of the late late late José Martí.  

 Fidel behind the plaza, always watching.  

Che on an adjacent building.  

Off to sleep!

Day 8 - Flight Back in Time

I was a bit let down that the Cubana Airlines flight was not on an old 1950's plane.  We flew to Cuba on your standard Airbus 320.  A bit old by today's standards but it's no led zepplin.

My first glimpse of this forbidden land. 

Customs and Immigration was, for the most part, a breeze.  The immigration officer kept asking me
"Something something something Africa."
I'm in Cuba not Africa.
"Something something something Africa."
Uhhh why does Africa have any relevance here?
"Something something something Africa."
I am really confused.  
He eventually moved on and did the whole stamping thing.  Finally I was through.  I'm in Cuba!

I realized right after the immigration officer was inquiring about Africa because of the Ebola outbreak.

Jackie, Anissa, and I caught a taxi to El Capitolio for $20 CUC.  Riding through Havana literally was going back through time.  The city looks like WWII just ended.  There are lots of abandoned buildings that could be mistaken for being bombed.

Clash of old with the renovated.  Classic juxtaposition in Cuba.   

 There are lots of abandoned buildings like this one.  

Revolution propaganda in the form of statues, murals, paintings, and posters fill blank walls, bus stops, and any open space that needs more revolución.  The propaganda all pay homage to the same few things: 26 de Julio, Che,  La Revolución, or José Martí (mainly just those four).

Annisa, Jackie, and José.

The "26 de Julio" is the date that Castro began the revolution in 1953 by raiding a barracks in Santiago de Cuba.  "Che" is short for Ernesto Che Guevara who was a key person in the Cuban revolution and who later went on to instigate rebellion and revolution throughout the rest of latin america before being assassinated by the CIA in Bolivia.  "La Revolución" refers to the Cuban revolution.  It is a source of pride for the nation not unlike US citizens rallying around "freedom".

We got to our Casa Particular and knocked on the door.  Someone dropped a key on a string from up above and we let ourselves in.  The buildings in Havana are reminiscent of buildings in San Francisco.  The outside looks old and rundown but the inside is new and refurnished, at least to Cuban standards.

Not the nicest exterior but the interior is often kept up quite well.

After settling in and getting the rundown of Havana from the owner, the three of us were off to find Jackie a Casa Particular.  A Casa is a room in a house that someone rents our, not unlike AirBnB.  The houses must get government approval to accept guests, typically only the nicer places.  Jackie knew of a place he wanted to stay at (our Casa had room but he wanted a place for no more than $10 CUC).  We found the address and walked in the front door only to be greeted with a dark stairwell and a revolting smell.  Piss.  It reeked of piss.  At least the stairwell did.  The actual accommodations were habitable.

The three of us went to grab dinner at Los Nardos, a restaurant recommended by The Lonely Planet (a highly recommended book to use for anyone traveling to Cuba).  Holy crap this place is fancy.

Los Nardos had a western style look going for it.  A pianist was playing The Girl from Ipanema.

Holy crap this place is cheap.  Drinks were no more than $2 CUC and the average dish was $5 CUC but had twice the food you would get in the states.

Well went all out.  Coming from one of the most expensive cities in the world really warps your perspective on things.  

I got the vegetable paella.  The dish didn't particularly appeal to me.  Anissa had the same but Jackie got fried chicken.  Three whole chicken legs plus thigh, including potatoes and fried plantains (the best)!

I was a bit let down because it was mainly rice.

They each got three rums and I got sangria, Johnny Walker Black Label, and red wine.  For dessert we shared a Tres Leches cake.  Mmmmmmm soooo gooood!  Total for dinner was $48 CUC.

The cake made up for my disappointment though.  

I'm full and tired.  Time for bed.

Day 07 - Down Day #2

Anissa arrives today!   My first day in Cancun I was extremely nervous and couldn't wait for Anissa to arrive.  There is a comforting feeling to knowing someone in a strange town.  If I'm going to be lost I would rather be lost with some company.

But that was a whole week ago.  I have met so many great people who have been travelling for months, often by themselves.  In every place they go they make fast friends and travelling companions.  Most people I have met started in South America and worked their way up to Mexico over 5 to 8 months.  How do they get so much free time??!!  Oh right, they quit their jobs.  Sadly, I love my job and don't want to quit!

So today, I have no plans.  I think I will just chat with people.

So I met three know people.  A Korean guy who goes by Jackie Chan, lives up to some stereotypes and began the day drinking.  A Slovenian named Tadej and a guy from Vancouver named Yulgene and I sat around, chatted, drank, and ate everything that Jackie Chan brought us.  I tried some Korean blood sausage, very very chewy, and some Korean noodles that were essentially Top Ramen.  

A great group of guys they are.  Coincidentally, I will be seeing Jacki Chan again today, as well as Youyu.

One of the hostel people made empanadas.  Oh my God did they smell amazing!  I bout three for $50 pesos and gave two away but Yulgene bought me another.

They were gooooooooood.  Best thing I have eaten so far.  

I hung around the hostel a bit longer then packed my things, said my goodbyes, and I was on my way...to the store!  Grabbed a few toiletries then stopped by the market for tacos.  I caught a taxi for $200 pesos, I know but I couldn't find a collectivo, and got to the Marriott Courtyard and met with Anissa!

The Marriott Courtyard is next to the airport, not any beach or anything so we just vegged out, watched late night tv and caught up.

Ok im falinng assslllleeeeee

Day 06 - Isla Mujeres

Today I went to Isla Mujeres!  Such a fantastic island.  I wish I had stayed here a couple of nights.  

Geoff, his mate William and his girlfriend Gus, and I visited Isla Mujeres together.  We bought our round trip tickets at Puerto Juarez for $145 pesos and we were off.  Once on the island we rented a gold cart for $650 pesos and headed south.  

Our fist stop was on the western peninsula where we visited a turtle farm.  

Here they raised turtles and released them once there were of size.  

They act like cats.  They mind their own business and give you some sass when they feel like it.  

After that we headed up the peninsula and reached a deadend.  Except it wasn't quite a deadend.  There was a dirt trail that we of course went down.  Geoff got us stuck in a puddle...good going Geoff! 

 I was happy he did that though because we voted him out of driving duties and I got to take the wheel.  I drove much more recklessly, the only difference being that I never got us stuck.

We headed down to the south tip or the island where there were some Mayan ruins.  $3 entrance fee.  From the top it doesn't look like much but once at the end the trail curves down the cliff side and back tracks.

On the bottoms trail we found a small beach.  I mean small as in 1 meter diameter.  It was the only place to safely enter the water.  So of course Geoff and I swam out!

You can see Geoff in the water if you look closely.

After the swim I needed to hydrate.  I bought a coco frio for $2 USD.  

Coconut water is so good.  Especially fresh coconut water.  I was able to split the coconut on some rocks.

I could totally survive on an island.

Then the four of us went to another beach.  We body surfed a couple waves and hen headed to lunch.

Mmm ceviche con atun.  Basically pure tuna with some salsa and chips.  With an overlook of the Caribbean and Cuba in sight, I didn't think it could get much better.

We returned the gold cart and went to the beach at the north of the island.  There the water is much calmer and more relaxing, like a pool.  

While in the water I caught a glimpse of a kiwi.  Could it be?  Rob?  It was!  The four of us ended up getting dinner with Rob and another Aussie named Chris.  Then we headed back to the hostel.

Not much happened after that. 

Buenas noches!

Day 05 - Down Day

Today is the Champions League Final!  I am totally going to watch that game.  

First, I'm off to the gym.  I found out there is a gym around the corner from the hostel.  50 pesos for the day.  

The gym is small and run down.  Really makes me appreciate the gyms back home.  That being said, I really enjoyed that gym.  Nice and homey.  And since I'm in Mexico I sweat like no other.

I decided I needed to buy a pair of pants and shorts.  Jeans are fucking terrible in humid climates.  Just awful.  They don't stretch and stick to your sweaty skin.  Ugh.  So me and a kiwi named Geoff set off to go to the mall.  We walked about 30 minutes through town to get to the Malecon Américas.  

It is just your typical mall.  Sears, Gucci, food court.  As Geoff and I paroused through we happened upon a stand with feeding fish.  So of course we had to try!

How did it feel?  It tickled!  Lots of little fish picking at my dead skin.  Afterwards my feet felt super soft and smooth.  $10 USD for 15 minutes, but the worker forgot about us and we got 25 minutes.   I had almost no feet left after all the extra time!

Geoff and I looked at a few stores before deciding to just go to Sears.  I got a pair of orange pants that had some stretch to them.  I am much more comfortable now.

On the way home we stopped by the supermarket Chedraui and got ingredients for guacamole.  Back at the hostel I whipped out the guacamole and salsa, sat down to watch the game, and realized it had just ended.  Shoot!  Oh well at least Messi won.

Over dinner I tried to convince a couple of Israelis to come work in Silicon Valley.  Inbal and Eran.  I'll have to visit sometime if they don't make it to the Bay Area.

That night I played Ring of Fire (Kings Cup) with a couple Norweigian girls, a guy from LA, and Daniel.  We played with a German deck, which is the same as a normal deck except the Jack and Queen have different symbols.  They played with some ridiculous rules such as the Bobo (Jack).  Whoever pulls the Bobo is the "asshole" and gets to boss everyone else around.  They also don't have to follow the normal rules.  What kind of crapnis that?  One of the Norweigians was just a fascist when she got the Bobo.  I was actually afraid when she dawned her card.  We ran out of chaser pretty quickly so I started drinking straight bourbon.  Bad idea with the fascist playing.  

Eventually it got late and people were being really loud, so I went to bed to piss off the owner of the hostel.

Night!

Day 04 - Chichen Itza

I'm up and ready at 6:50 for my tour of Chichen Itza at 7:00.  The shuttle didn't arrive until 7:30.  Mexican time.  Half an hour early or late, either way.  

The shuttle arrived and off we go!  I took a tour of Chichen Itza from the hostel for about $45.  I went with a German name Peter, a Pole named Kata, a Japanese turned North Californian named Youyu, and a Kiwi named Rob.  

The tour was mainly in Spanish.  Fortunately our guide spoke Spanish, Potuguese, and English.  So after his hour intro in Spanish, he repeated the entire thing in English.  Yay!

So here is what I learned.  Mayans do still exist.  They are very short, no taller than 5 foot.  They are also a suppressed people and very poor.  The guide was saying they live off the land, have 12 or so children who all live in the same hut with no beds.  From what I saw, I don't quite believe that.

Our first stop was a Mayan village.

Lots of carvings and paper weights and masks.  Then we walked through a shop that was giving us tequila samples.

More of a tequila liquor than actual tequila.

We walked through a village and a Mayan woman was making tacos and giving then to us tourists. 

Mmmm fresh made tortillas.  The best.

Walked around the village a bit.

Then we ate a classic Mayan lunch (I think).  Basically a Sol Food style meal but not as good.

Then it was back to the bus and off to a cenote (sinkhole).  

This is some Indian Jones shit!

That's Youyu and Kata.

The cenote was awesome.  Simple awesome.  My pictures do it no justice.

Out of the water, more tequila tasting with Rob and then off to Chichen Itza!

Chichen Itza was...well it would have been awe inspiring but hundreds of peddlers and fake panther calls took a lot away from the experience.

The engineering that went into Chichen Itza is amazing.  If you stand in front of the stairs and clap the sound travels up the stairs and it sounds like a quetzal.  

In the hip ball court standing in the center, if you clap you can hear 7 echos. The Nayans were obsessed with the number 7.  They also invented 0 and I heard a lot of nothing at times.  Also in the ball court, the emperor and his guest sat 200 meters across from each other but could speak normally and still hear.  Same concept as the exhibit on the Exploratorium or I think a parabolic satellite dish.  It directs the sounds waves in one direction.

After the tour I travelled around.

Then the park closed.  WTF?!  Only give minutes to see the other half of the place?  

Chichen Itza is a great place with lots of history and interesting things to see.  Lots of peddlers really take from the experience.  All in all it was a good tour, I just wish I had more time to explore.

Back at the hostel I taught more people the glorious game that is Mao.  And they loved it!  We played some 10 games with 7 or 8 people.  Hopefully they bring the game back to their home countries.  

Part way through the game, a hostel worker named Daniel brought out some Cubanas.  My first taste of Cuba was smokey and light.  Not bad.  But also not something I would do regularly.

Off to bed.  Tomorrow I have no plans.